Last week I caught up with fellow traveling buddy Heather of There’s No Place Like Oz fame. She told me that she was planning a road trip from Cooktown to Brisbane with another friend, Brooke of Why Go Australia and Brooke Vs The World fame. Even before Heather had finished talking I was spewing forth excited information. “Ooo you’ve gotta go here” and “You’ve gotta do that” and “If you go through this place make sure you check out those”... You get the idea.

Needless to say Heather just looked at me and calmly said, “would you mind writing that down cause I can’t remember all that.”

So I did. I grabbed a scrap of paper (actually it was the menu of the cafe we were in) and started scribbling all the places down. In my enthusiasm to put down all the ideas that were erupting from my head, I made an unreadable mess. As I handed her the menu with my chook scratchings all over it, the look on her face could only be described as dismay. I pulled the menu back “Maybe I should type it up for you...” Her face lit up in agreement.

A few days later when I finally started trying to figure out what I’d written, I thought it might be a good idea to type it up as a blog entry so that others can enjoy it too. So that’s what I’m doing now.

Cooktown

I would recommend planning your trip to Cooktown so that you arrive in time to see the Sunset. As you drive through town head straight for The Grassy Hill. You’ll see it, it’s a hill, with grass on it. About half way up there is the most perfect spot to look down on the town and across the Endeavour river to the tablelands of Yimithirr country in the distance. This was an awe inspiring magical sight.

After the spectacular view, you can’t go past the magnificent Restaurant 1770 for dinner. My night here was truly one of the best dining experiences of my whole trip, if not my whole life. It’s not just the food that was great, it’s the whole experience. This place is an absolute Must Do.

Something I only recently learned about and was sad to have missed, are the Guurrbi Tours with Aboriginal Elder Willie Gordon. This walk along some of the Nugal-warra tracks and through woodlands in an area known as Wangaar-Wuri, is an exploration of Aboriginal rock art, giant rocks and spectacular views. I’ll definitely be heading back at some point to experience this amazing insight into our native Australian’s heritage.

I really loved Cooktown and there is lots to see and do but the last thing I will recommend as a must, is heading back up the Grassy Hill. This time, however, early in the morning. It really is worth the effort to see the Sunrise from the lighthouse on the very top. Being on the ocean side of the hill, it is very different to the Sunset but just a magical to see.

Not Quite Cooktown

Ok so this should possibly still fall under the Cooktown heading but that would mean I lied about the Sunrise being the last recommendation. As you’re leaving Cooktown, you’ll go past Black Mountain. My first sight of this enigma was very much a ‘WTF’ moment. It is a mountain made entirely of black boulders. As there is no dirt, nothing grows on it other than fig trees that dangle their roots deep inside.

I’m not going to recommend venturing too close to the mountain unless you’re with someone who knows the area very well. It is an easy place for all kinds of accidents to happen so stay safe.

Port Douglas

There is so much to do in Port Douglas, I could ramble on for hours but I wont. there are only two things I’ll recommend as must do’s. First up is visiting the Rainforest Habitat. They offer Breakfast with the Birds and Lunch with the Lorikeets packages that are worth taking up. If you’re an animal lover like me, then this is one of the best wildlife parks I’ve visited. Just remember, when you feed the animals, the Emu wants some love too. They’re not that scary, really...

The second must do here is ribs at the Rattle n’ Hum hostel restaurant. these ribs are so good, they could almost tempt a vegan to cross over from the dark side. I even had them for lunch and dinner one day. Probably not going to recommend doing that though...

Cairns

I liked Cairns but there isn’t a whole lot I would say is a “Must Do”. However I did have dinner at Casa De Meze where I had my first experience of Emu meat. I know, I know, I was just making friends with the Emus in Port Douglas. But they taste sooo good. Emu has now become my favorite meat.

This is turning into a Must Eat rather than a Must Do list...

Kuranda

This little village, tucked away in the hills above Cairns, has some real treats. Even getting there and returning can be a fantastic adventure. I took the Skyrail up the mountain and the Kuranda Scenic Railway back and both would be on my “Must Do” list.

The Skyrail is a series of cable cars that glide you above the spectacular rainforest up the mountain. There are several stops along the way where you can wander around tracks in the thick forest and get views of the magnificent Barron Gorge and waterfalls.

The Kuranda Scenic Railway winds its way on a journey through the rainforest and along the opposite edges of the Barron Gorge. There are plenty of breathtaking views and a couple of stops for some great photo opportunities. One thing to keep in mind, is to book your bus trip back from the train station to the Skyrail station in advance. You don’t want to get left waiting for an expensive cab ride back.

Once in Kuranda, the Butterfly Sanctuary is worth a look and there was a fantastic bakery there too, somewhere. I wish I’d written down the name of the place. Kinda makes this one the useless “Must Do” tip of the page. But I can assure you it was good.

Mission Beach

Down the road a bit, you get to Mission Beach. To be perfectly honest, I wasn’t that impressed with the area as a lot of construction and development was going on. However, I did stay at a really interesting place called Sanctuary Retreat. Basically your room is a treehouse in the overgrown rainforest, with only netting for walls to keep the bugs out. It’s like camping in the wild but with a comfortable bed. It’s hard to describe but was a great experience. Just remember not to leave anything you may need in the car, it’s a long walk back if you do.

Townsville

I really only passed through Townsville, but the one thing that caught my attention was Castle Hill. If you approach this monolith from the West, it looks like a volcano sticking out of the middle of an otherwise, flat city. However, the East side is a sheer cliff face that looks like a cutaway diagram in a geology school book.

There is a roadway to the top and some really nice scenic lookouts. Be prepared for a bit of walking if you want to get to the best ones where you’ll find magnificent views of Magnetic Island among other things.

Capricorn Caves

Keep on trekking down the highway and just before you reach Rockhampton, you’ll come to the Capricorn Caves. Not the most spectacular of caves in terms of calcite deposits, stalactites and stalagmites but this place has a secret weapon all of its own. An acoustically perfect chamber and I’ve gotta say, I’m getting chills just remembering it. Don’t be afraid to sing while you’re in the chamber. It’s an amazing experience and you’ll regret it if you don’t.

Hervey Bay

I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Hervey Bay and although I really like it, I wouldn’t say there is anything that is a “Must Do”. However it is the doorway to Fraiser Island and that definitely is. I would recommend doing one of the guided tours unless you are experienced at off-road four wheel driving. I don’t want to scare you off but also don’t fool yourself, this is dangerous territory for the inexperienced. Two people actually died the day I was there when they flipped a 4wd at a river crossing and drowned. Have fun and enjoy this natural beauty but stay safe.

Glasshouse Mountains

Back on the Bruce Highway and heading to Brisbane, there is a turn off for the Glasshouse Mountains that is well worth the time. These are a bunch of ancient and extinct volcanoes that have weathered away leaving only the trachyte volcanic plugs standing. Be prepared for some serious bushwalking and steep hillside treks to get the full experience of this primeval landscape.

Brisbane

Finally you’ve reached Brisbane, my personal favorite city in Oz. The funny thing is, I couldn’t actually pinpoint one major reason why. I can’t even think of one thing that is a “Must Do” here. I think it’s just the whole atmosphere and buzz that seeps into your soul while in this town. Maybe that’s what the “Must Do” is. Just to “Experience” the life that is Brisbane.

From Brisbane to Cooktown

But what do you do if you're planning a trip in the opposite direction? Well you can either read this backwards, starting at the bottom and reading up or hold it up to a mirror for the reverse order

Just be warned. If you're travelling in this direction and end up in Cooktown, you may just want to stay forever..